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Q: Dave, My icynene contractor sprayed insulation directly on top of the recessed lights in my attic when insulating the attic. The electrician nearly had a heart attack and so did the builder. Even though the fixtures are rated for direct contact, my electrician tells me the retained heat will make the wires wear down and cause the lights to fail. The icynene contractor says he spray the fixtures all the time and it won't cause a problem. Who is right?

 A: The issues of spraying any insulation directly on can lights should be reason for concern. If the proper size bulbs are installed you shouldn’t have issues. If cans do get hot they should shut down until they cool. In the future, the insulator may want to consider putting aluminum flashing around the can light. This allows room for the light to breath. Another solution if the lights are not dimmable, would be to install fluorescent bulbs. They work well and produce less heat. Oh, by the way, they cost less to operate.

  Q: Dave: I'm going to build a house. I'm concerned about energy efficiency. But, I'm also concerned about the indoor air quality of a tight home. I spoke with a builder recently. He told me, "You don't want to build a house too tight." What is the latest word on tight construction? Thanks, Jared

  A: Well Jared, There are actually 4 words that come to my mind, "Build tight, Ventilate Right." While it's not possible to build too tight, it is very easy to under ventilate. Working with your builder and heating contractor to build a new home as tight as possible, and then include mechanical ventilation and "Right-sized heating and cooling equipment," you will have a home that's both energy efficient and comfortable.

  Q: I want to improve the energy efficiency of my 40 year old home. Where should I start? Thank you for you help, Terry

  A: Terry: Caulk and seal. Unintended air infiltration accounts for more energy costs than any other deficiency in a home. Windows should be the last thing considered. Mostly because of the cost and return on investment. I might suggest you locate an energy auditor who could give you a plan of action ranging from least costly to most costly and the savings that might be achieved. If their service includes a blower door test, you could expect a $300 to $500 cost. Money well spent, if you're not sure where to start.

  Q: Dave, Two rooms at one end of my house are quite cold, while a room at the other end of the house is too warm. Are there any simple solutions. Thank you, Michele

  A: Michele, There are several things to try. First there should be return air ducts in each room. If not, leave the doors to the cooler rooms open when they are not being used. If that doesn't help, you could cut 1/2" to 1" off of the bottom of the doors to those rooms. Another thing to try might be to partially close other supply vents in your home. This will help force more air into those rooms.

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